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6 Sheets-Sheet 1.

(No'Model.)

W. MILLS 8v E. B. MOORE.

BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 439,599. Patented Oct. 28. 1890.

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W. MILLS L E.' E. MOOEE.

BUTTON HOLE SEWING MAOEINE.

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(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 3.

W. MILLS &. E. B. MOORE. BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 439.599. E nted Oct. 28, 1890.

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lig 439,599. Patented Oct. 28, 1990.

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(No Model.)

W. MILLS & E. B. MOORE. BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

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6 Sheets-Sheet 6. W. MILLS & E. B. MOORE. BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE. Y

Patented Oct. 28, 1890.

(No Model.)

mvENToR's )XM muy UNITED "STATES PATENT OFFICE( .IVILLIAM MILLS, OF PHILADELPHIA, AND EDVARD B. MOORE, OF VEST CHESTER, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGN ORS TO SAID MOORE.

BUTTON-HOLE SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 439,599, dated October 28, 1890.

Application filed June 17, 1889. Serial No. 314,673. (No model.)

To @ZZ whom it may concern: racer-arm 65. Fig. 14, Plate 4, is agsectional Be it known that we, IVILLIAM MILLS, ot' perspective View of one end of lever-arm 65, the city of Philadelphia, and EDWARD B. ball-joint 73, for operating lower needle-racer MOORE, ofthe borough of Vest Chester, Penn- 62. Fig. 15, Plate 4, is a perspective view of 55 Sylvania, and both citizens of the United lever 7 5 and slide 77 for operating lower nee- States, have invented certain useful Improvedle-racer 62. Fig. 16, Plate 4, is a View of side ments in Button-Hole Sewing-Machines; and earn 61 for vibrating grooved block 57%, in we do declare the following to be a full, clear, which is operated lower needle-racer 62. Figs. and exact description of the invention, such 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, and 25, Plate 5, 6o ro as will enable others skilled in the art to which are perspective, sectional, and plan views of ourimprovementspertain to make and usethe mechanisms connected with feed and trip same. motions. Fig. 26, Plate 5, is a rear view of Our invention has for its object the sim` the end of arm of machine with take-up arm pliiication and improvement of the class of 122 and bearing 123 and take-up cam 124 car- 65 machines to which it belongs. ried on rock-shaft 111. Fig. 27, Plate 6, is an In the accompanying drawings, forming 'end view of the head of machine, take-up part of this specification, we have illustrated arm 122, and cam 127. Fig. 28, Plate 6, is a Your improvements as embodied in a machine skeleton .side View of machine, showing pivand combined with its various operative parts oted block 130 for carrying knife 130%, lever 7o zo in the way which We believe will be found arm 137, and block 133, wedge 134, and anvil the best adapted for use, and in the claims 136. Figs. 29, 30, 31, 32, and 33, Plate 1, are we have clearly pointed out those features of side and perspective views of parts of stopthe machine so shown which are new with us motions. and which we desire to protect by Letters The following descriptions and references 75 Patent. will more fully explain the purposes of the Reference being now had to the drawings, I several parts and their relations to each other: Figure 1, Plate 1, is a plan view of the under Fig. 1, Plate 1, shows the lower side ofthe side of the feed-slide. Fig. 2, Plate 1, is a feed plate orslide.` 2 isarotating disk, which sectional view of the feed-slide and disk carries an ordinary clamp for holding fabrics 8o 3o with pivoted tooth droppedfand in engagewhile being stitched. (Not shown in draw- `ment with feed-cam or. sectional part of ings.) 3 is a segmental rack fastened to unworrn 11. Fig. 3, Plate 1, is a sectional side der side of disk .2 by screws a c. (See Figs. View of disk with pivoted tooth 4 elevated l, 2, and 3, Plate 1, and Fig. 9, Plate 3.) 4.is above feed-cam or sectional part of worm a pivoted tooth in segmental rack 3, pivoted 85 11. Figs. 4 and 5, Plate 2, are sectional at a2. (See Figs. 2 and 3, Plate 1, and Fig. 9, side views of under side of machine, as at W Plate 5 is a steady-pin fastened to disk WV, Fig. 9. Fig. 6, Plate 2, is a sectional side 2 and working in slot 5 in said pivoted tooth view of under side of machine, as at X X, 4. 6 6 are the side bearings for said pivoted Fig. 9. Fig. 7, Plate 2, is a sectional end view tooth 4. 7 is a projection on pivoted tooth 4. 9o 4o of feed-block 9S with side bearings 100 109. (See Figs. 2 and 3, Plate 1 S is a depressing Fig. 8 is a sectional side view of under side rod fastened to end of pivoted tooth 4 at 8 of machine, as atY Y, Fig. 9. Fig. 9, Plate 3, and extending above the surface of disk 2. plan view of under side of machine. Fig. (See Figs. 2 and 3, Plate l.) 9 is a spiral 10, Plate 4, is a plan View of a part of the spring carried on depressing-rod 8, which 95 machine with feed-slide removed. Fig. 11, tends to depress the end of pivoted tooth 4, Plate 4, is a perspective view of throat-plate that engages with feed-cam or sectional part 21 and its support. Fig. 12, Plate 4, isa perof worm 1l. (See Figs. 2 and 3, Plate l.) A The spective View of the double-grooved racernecessity for these several parts may be furblock 57% for operating lower needle. Fig. 13, ther explained as follows: lVhen feed-slide 1 i: 5o Plate 4, is a sectional perspective View of the is in position and being fed forward in the needle-racer 62, needle-holder 70, and needle process of stitching the first straight side of a button-hole, it is necessary that pivoted tooth 4 shall be held above the outer periphery of feed-cam or sectional part of worm 11. This is accomplished by means of plate 10, as shown in Fig. 3, Plate 1; but as soon as the heel of pivoted too'th 4 is fed over the end of plate 10it is forced down by theaction of spring 9, carried on rod 8, and is at once engaged by feed-cam or sectional part of worm 11, as shown in Fig. 2, Plate 1, and by this means disk 2 is given this first movement of rotation and the cam or screw thrown into engagement with the teeth of the rack, so that the bolt is intermittently turned at each revolution of said feed-cam or sectional part of worm 11, carried 011 main shaft B, at the completion of each stitch in making the round end in the eye of the button-hole. At the completion of the stitching in each buttonhole disk 2 is turned by the operator and rod 8 is pressed back, which raises pivoted tooth 4 up to the top of plate 10, and feed-slidel is drawn back to its initial position for the commencement of a new button-hole.

12 is a sectional flange extending around the outer periphery of segmental rack 3. (See Figs. 1 and 2, Plate 1.)

13 is an adjustable pin in arm 14.)- of rockshaft 14. (See Fig. 10, Plate 4, Fig. S, Plate 2, and Fig. 17, Plat-e 5.) As the feed-slide moves forward, ange 12 on segmental rack 3 comes in contact with adjustable pin 13, and rockshaft 14 is slightly turned, by which action pawl 18 is lifted out of ratchet-wheel 17 by `arm 19 of rock-shaft 14, and thus the forward movement of feed-slide 1 is suspended while disk 2 is being turned, and the round end of the eye of the button-hole is stitched. (See Fig. 8, Plate 2.) At the moment the turning of disk 2 is completed adjustable pin 13 drops olf the end of sectional flange 12, and pawl 18 is at once restored to contact with ratchetwheel 17, as shown in Fig. 17, Plate 5, and feed-slide 1 moves on in stitching the last straight side of the button-hole.

The general principles embracing' flange 12 upon segmental rack 3, carried on disk 2 for raising pawls out of ratchet-wheel, are embraced in Patent No. 349,445, granted to Edward Blackfan Moore and George Rehfuss, September 21, 1886.

b b ZJ are friction-plates bearing upon the edges of under side of disk 2, and fastened to under side of feed-slide 1 by screws c c o.

20, Plate 1, Fig. 1, is a slot or opening in disk 2 and feed-slide 1 for passage ot' center or throat plate 21, as feed-slide 1 is moved forward and backward in the several operations of clamping and cutting the material and stitching the button-hole.

21 is the throat or center plate through which the needles pass in their upward and downward movements. (See Fig. 1l, Plate 4, and Fig. 9, Plate 3.)

22 is a guide-plate fastened to the under side of feed-slide 1 by screws d (l (Z d. 23 is a slot in saidguide-plate in which pin 24 carrying roller c', (see Fig. 10, Plate 4,) passes as the button-hole is being stitched.

25 25 are male and female shoes fastened to guide-plate 22 and forming part of the guide-slots, and by means of which the size and shape of each button-hole is controlled, as explained in the patent to Moore and Rehfuss No. 349,445. Said shoes are interchangeable, and are fastened to guide-plate by means of sclews c e.

2G is a straight feed-rack pivoted to feedslide 1 at 27, and rests in a milled groove or recess 28 in said feed-slide 1. (See Fig. 1, Plate 1.)

29 is a movable rod carried in slotted bearing 30, fastened to under side of feed-slide 1 by means of screwf.' (See Fig. 1, Plate 1.)

3l is a coiled-wire spring, which presses rod 29 forward in the direction of side bearing Q of bed-plate A, on which bearings Q Q feedslide 1 rests. (See Fig. 10, Plate 4.)

32 and are notches cut in one of the side bearings Q of bed-plate A. (See Fig. 10, Plate 4.) Notch 32 is simply to make room for said movable rod 29 when feed-slide 1. is placed in position on bearings Q Q. When feed-slide 1 reaches the point where the round end of the eye of the button-hole is to be made, pawl 1S is lifted from ratchet-wheel 17, and feedslide 1 stops. Feed-cam or sectional part of worm 11 engages pivoted tooth 4, and disk 2 isintermittently turned. To hold feed-slide 1 steady during the process of turning disk 2, rod 29 enters notch and prevents any forward movement of said slide 1 under the action of feed-cam or sectional part of worm 11.

34 is a pin on the end of rod 29. On the last movement of disk 2 in the process of turning in stitching the round end of the eye of the button-hole projection 7 on pivoted tooth 4 in segmental rack 3 comes in contact with pin 34 on the end of rod 29, and thusthe latter is forced back out of notch 33 in bed-plate A, and feed-slide 1 is again permitted to move forward in stitching the last straight side of the button-hole.

Fig. 1S, Sheet 5, shows rod 3G with right and left hand screw-threads O O cut thereon and carrying two movable blocks 37 and 38. These two blocks 37 and 3S extend both above and below bed-plate A through slots P P, Fig. 10, Plate 4, and Fig. (i, Plate 2. Block 37 has a beveled edge at, as shown in Fig. 18, Plate 5, and Fig. 10, Plate 4. Blocks 37 and 38 serve as stop-motions for controlling the beginning and ending of the stitching in each buttonholc, and likewise the length of same. By turning rod 36 the two blocks 37 and 38 are drawn together or carried apart, according to the desired length of the button-hole.

As shown in Fig. 1, Plate 1, and Figs. 23, 24, and 25, Plate 5, 35 is a projection or lug fastened to upper side of feed-slide 1 and extending over the edge of same. After the fabric has been clamped and cut for the button-hole feed-slide l is pushed forward until lug 35 comes in contact with block 37,

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carried on rod 36, as shown in Fig. 23, Plate 5. The distance the feed-slide is permitted to move forward until lug 35 comes in contact with block 37 controls the beginning of the stitching in the desired length of but ton-hole, and this distance is regulated by the operator moving block 37 on rod 36 by means of screw O.

When the machine is thrown into gear by the operator pressing upon trip-rod D, carrying button D', (see Figs. 4 and 5, Plate 2,) which is pivoted to trip-lever 83 at C014 by pin a5, (see Figs. 4 and 5, Plate 2,) lever 40 by its incline 404 (see Fig. 19, Plate 5) is oscillated. Lever 40, which is pivoted to bedplate A by a stud and screw 413-, in turn oscillates or moves block 37 out of line of lug 35, as shown in Fig. 24, Plate 5,and thus feedslide 1 is permitted to move forward untillug 35 on feed-slide 1 reaches block 38, as shown in Fig. 25, Plate 5. Block 38 is pushed over by the pressure of lug 35. By this action the lower end of block 38 is made to press against lever 41. Lever 41 in turn presses against trigger or trip 42, as shown in Fig. 21, Plate 5, and Figs. 4 and 5, Plate 2, forcing it oif its resting-point on bed-plate A at S, thus tripping and stopping the machine by the action of the stop-motion hereinafter more fully described. Spring 39, attached to block 37, (see Fig. 18, Plate 5,) restores said block 37 to its upright position as soon Aas the machine is tripped and stopped; but the beveled edge on block 37 permits lug 35 to push it over and pass, when the feed-slide is brought back and returned to it-s initial position after each-button-hole has been stitched.

11 is what is known in mechanism as a feed-cam or sectional part of a worm, carried on main shaft B. (See Figs. 2 and 3, Plate 1, and Fig. 9, Plate 3, and Fig. 10, Plate 4.) A portion of said feed-cam is cut away, as shown in Fig. 8, Plate 2, and Fig. 9, Plate 3, to give it intermittent engagement with segmentalrack 3, and to enable disk 2 to be turned and brought back to its initial position after the stitching has been completed in each button-hole, an dth erefore may be properly called a feed-cam or sectional part of a worm. The feed-cam gears in segmental rack 3, fastened to under side of disk 2, and intermittently turns disk 2 after each stitch has been completed in stitching the round end of the eye of the button-hole. A curvature d6 in the iiange 0r blade of feed-cam or sectional part of worm 11, as shown in Fig. 9, Plate 3, turns disk 2, and at the same time controls the distance of each intermittent turn of said disk 2 at each revolution of shaft B, and as each stitch is made in the round end of the eye of the button-hole. The other portion of the blade or flange of said feed-cam or sectional part of worm 1l is straight and serves to lock and hold said disk 2 steady after each intermittent movement has been made by the action of feed-cam or sectional part of'worm 1l.

43 is a projection on bed-plate A, having screw 44. (See Figs. 6 and 8, Plate 2.) The object of screw 44 is to control the quantity of cloth embraced inside the line of action of the needle in stitching the round end of the eye of the button-hole.

In heavy materials a less quantity is needed inside the line of the neeedle than where the material is light, and screw 44 serves to regulate this at the will of the operator when cutting the hole in the fabric. When the feed-slide 1 is pulled back to cut the hole in the material, lug 35, fastened to feed-slide 1, comes in contact with the end of screw 44. By lengthening or shortening screw 44 the quantity of material left inside the radial action of the needle can be regulated. In other words, the further back the slide is permitted to come the more material there will be between the line of action of the needle and the edge of the cut, and vice versa.

Fig. 10, Plate 4, is a view of the upper side of the bed-plate A with feed-slide removed.

16 is a plate to which the center or throat plate 2'i s fastened, and is held in place by screws i t t fr.

10 is a small plate fastened to plate 16, and by means of which pivoted tooth 4 of segmental rack 3 is held above the outer periphery of feed-cam or sectional part of worm 11 while being fed forward in stitching the first straight side of the button-hole. (See Fig. 3, Plate 1.)4

104 is a projection or elevation on the side of plate 10, against the side of which pivoted tooth 4 of segmental rack 3 presses when the fabric is being cut, preventing disk 2 from turning, and thereby securing a straight cut in the fabric.

24 is a stud-carrying roller c', that worksin slot 23 in feed-guide 22, fastened to theunder side of feed-slide 1, and thus controls and gives direction to the latter. (See Plate l, Fig. 1.) y

244 is an adjustable slide with beveled edges, to which stud 24, carrying roller c', is fastened. This slide is held between two beveled pieces 45 45, fastened to bed-plate A by .screws h h h h.

rests on the bearings Q Q, and is grasped betweenthe swiveling guides 48 and 50, its angular position being governed by the slot in guide-plate 22 and the shoes 25 25, which are IOO IIO

attached to said plate, and between which the pin 24 projects. The slide 1 is kept in operative engagement with the gear-wheel 57 irrespective of any change in its angular position by the device o`f pivoting the rack 26 at one end, as shown, and allowing it to turn freely on said pivot. In this way the said rack always maintains the same alignment irrespective of the change in the angular position of the-slide to which it is pivoted and which is drawn forward.

52 is a slotted bridge on the side of throatplate 21. 58 is a pin working in said slotted bridge 52, which, by the combined act-ion of lever 54, fastened to center plate 16 by screw 544, roller 55, working in cam-groove 59, is intermittently thrust between the two needles on their upward movement. By this means pin 58 is made to catch the thread of the upper needle on cach upward movement and hold it in the throat or center plate until after the upper needle has reached its highest point of elevation. When the stitching of the button-h0le has been com pleted,the thread of the upper needle is cut, and as the mate rial is taken from beneath the clamp the end of the thread attached to the bnttoirholc being held by pin. 58 the end is drawn down through the goods, and thus the last loop in the stitching is destroyed and the button-hole will not unravel. Application for Letters Patent by E. B. Moore and George Rehfuss covering this mechanical device are now pending in the Patent Oliice. The Serial number of the application is 227,716.

57 is a gear-wheel carried 011 shaft al, (see Plate 2, Fig. 8,) and extends above bed-plate A, and to which straight gear-rack 2G, earried on under side of feed-slide 1, is connected. (See Plate 1, Fig. 1, and Plate 4, Fig. 10.)

Fig. 11, `Plate 4, is a perspective View of plate 16 and throat-plate 21, and to which is fastened plate 10.

574, Fig. 12, Plate 4, is a perspective view of block with beveled grooves 58 and 59 on opposite sides of said block. Needle-racer G2 is operated in groove 58.

591)- is a stud with thread eut 011 the end, and by which means said grooved block 57 is swiveled to bed-plate A.

60 is a pin or stud on the end of block 57 and carries roller (50.). Roller (597)- works in side cam Gl, having groove 614. The object of roller 604,.A and cam U1 is to vibrate one end of block 571)-, and thus throw the lower needle on one side of the upper needle when they are both below the throat-plate, and on the opposite side thereof when they are both above the throat-plate- This principle of vibrating the block carrying lower needle-racer has been made the subject for Letters Patent by E. B. Moore and George Rehfuss. rlhe Serial number of the application is 202,568.

(52, Fig. 13, Plate 4, is a perspective view of needle-racer with beveled sides carrying needle 69, operated in groove 58 in block G8 is a washer that moves in groove 59 iu block 574.

64 is a slot in block 57T). By means of a screw passing through washer 63 and slot G4 and fastened to beveled needle-racer block 62, the latter is held firmly in groove 58 in block 579,- While being moved backward and forward in the process of stitching the button-hole.

G5 is a part of needle-racer arm with balljoint G0, which is attached to needle-racer block (32 by means of pins G7 and nut G8.

G9 is the lower needle, held in place by block and screw 71.

(35, Fig. 14, Plate 4, is a perspective view of opposite end of needle-racer arm G5, having ball-joint 78 and screw 74.

75, Fig. 15, is aperspective sectional under side view of one of the levers for operating lower needle, its functions being more clearly represented on Plate 8, Fig. 9.

7G is a slot in said lever 74, in which slide 77 is operated. (See Plate 3, Fig. 9.)

78 is an adjustable side bearing. (See, also, Plate 5l, Fig 9.)

79 is a hole for screw 74 in ball-joint 73. (See Fig. 1,5, Plate 4.)

8O is a washer on pin 82.

81 is a nut on one end of pin 82, that passes through slide 77. (See Fig. 9, Plate 3.)

Figs. 4 and 5, Plate 2, are sectional views of under side of machine, as shown at w w, Plate Y 88 is a trip-level', pivoted at X, and hinged or linked to lever 84 at Y.

85 is a shaft or rod for stopmotion.

ll, Fig. 9, Plate 8, is the lower take-up operated by cam Il.

86 is a face-cam carried on main shaft B, having groove 89. (See Plate 3, Fig. 9.)

87 is an arm-carrying roller 88, (see Fig. 4, Plate 2,) that moves in groove 89 of cam 86. (See Fig. 9, Plate 8.)

90 is a nut on end of pin and screw 91 of roller 88. (See Fig. 4, Plate 2.) 911i is a washer on said pin and screw 91. (See Fifr. 9, Plate 3.) Arm 87is pivoted to bed-plate at one end by screw 92, and is connected at the other end with lever-arm 75 by means of slide 77 and pin 82. (See Fig. 9, Plate 9.) Arm 75 is fastened to bed-plate by stud and screw 93. By the combined action of levers 75 and 87, cam 8G, with roller 88, working in groove 89, and lever 65, needle-racer (52, carrying lower needle G9, is operated in groove 58 of block 575-. (See Figs. 9, Plate 3, and Figs. 11, 12, 13, 14, and 15, Plate 4, and Fig. 4, Plate 2.)

94 is a brake made of tempered steel faced with leather, and is intended to steady the movement of feed-slide 1 undel' the action of pawl 18, working in ratchet-wheel 17. This brake is screwed to t-rip-arm 84 through block 84- by means of screws K K.

95 is awheel carried on ratchet-wheel shaft 9G, against which brake 94 impinges.

Fig. 4, Plate 2, shows the machine in a IOO IIO

plate A by screw 109.

tripped condition. The end ot' trigger 42, pivoted to trip-arln 83, has been removed from its bearing on bed-plate A, at S, by the action of trip-lever41. (See, also, Fig. 21, Plate 5,) Trip-pin D, carrying button D', is elevated above surface of bed-plate A, trip-lever arm 84 is forced down, as at Y, and brake 94 by'this same action is removed from contact with wheel 95. Fig. 5, Plate 2, shows the machine in a geared condition, trip-pin D, with button D', is forced down even with the surface of bed-plate A, and the end of trigger 42 is resting on projection of bed-plate A at S, being pushed forward by the action of spring 97 when arm 83 is depressed.

Fig. 6, Plate 2, is a sectional view of lower side of machine, as at X X, Plate 3. 97% is a cam operated on main shaft B and moved in feed-block 98, havingarms 99 99. Feed-block 98 has beveled sides, and is held in place by beveled side pieces 100 100, as shown in Fig. 7, Plate 2.

101 is a link pivoted on ratchet-wheel shaft 96. This pivoted link has a slot 102, in which is operated slide-block 103, fastened to feedslide 98 by means of a stud and nut passing through arm of feed-block 98, which has a slot corresponding` to slot 102. Pawl 18 is pivoted to an arm of link 101 at 104. Thus bythe action of eccentric-cam 975, working between arms 99 99 of feed-block 98, a backward and forward movement is impart-ed to feed-block 98. At the same time a rocking motion isimparted to the link 101, carrying pawl 18, which through its action on ratchet-wheel 17, a forward step-by-step movement is given to said ratchet-wheel 17 and shaft 96 is turn ed. Through gear-wheel 571%-, carried on shaft 96, and geanwheel 57, carried on shaft a7, (see Fig. 9, Plate 3, and Fig. 8, Plate 3,) and their connection with straightfeed-rack26, carried on feed-slide 1, a forward step-by-step movement is imparted to said feed-slide 1 after each stitch has been completed. By raising or depressing slide-block 103 in slot 102 'a longer or shorter throw can be given to pawl 18, and thus the length of movelnent of link-arm 101 under the action of cam 97%, working in feed block 98, can be controlled, and by this means the number of stitches in a button-hole can be regulated. Spring 105 keeps p awl 18 in ratchet-wheel 17.

Fig. 17, Plate 5, gvesaperspective view of the lneans by which pawl 18 is lifted from the ratchet-wheel 17 at the conclusion of the stitching of each button-hole.

106 is a lever pivoted to stud 854A on bed- (See Fig. 9, Plate 2.) One arm of lever 106 is numbered 107 and the other 108. (See Figs. 4, 5, 6, and 8, Plate 2, and Fig. 9, Plate 3, and Fig. 22, Plate 5.) Arm 107 extends underpawl 18 of ratchet-wheel17, while the other arm 108 extends under block 84%A of trip-lever arm 84. (See Figs. 17'and 22, Plate 5, and Fig. 9, Plate 3, and Figs. 4 and 5, Plate 2.) WVhen the machine is tripped and out of gear, trip-lever arm 84 is depressed, and

'block' 84% coming in contact with arm 108 of lever 106, arm 107 is moved, and by this action pawl 18 is removed from ratchet-wheel 17, as shown in Fig. 8, Plate 2. lhen pin D is pressed down by the operator, lever 84 is raised, releasing arm 108, and pawl -18 is restored to engagement with ratchet-wheel 17 by the action of spring 105. (See Figs. 22 and 17, Plate 5, and Fig. 6, Plate 2.)

Fig. 26, Plate 5, is a rear view of head of arm of machine.

110 is the arm of machine.

111 is the rock-shaft for operating needlebar 112.

113 isa sectional part of head of arm. (See Fig. 27, Plate 6.)

114 is a wedge, which separates the two sectional parts 110 and 113 of the head of the machine, as shown in Fig. 28, Plate 6.

115 115 are two screws that hold the two sectional parts 110 and 113 together. There are two slots (not shown) in wedge 114, which admit of the passage of screws 115 115. These slots are sufficiently elongated to admit of raising or lowering wedge 114 by means of screw 116, which rests upon a slotted plate 117. There is a groove underneath the head of screw 116, in which plate 117 rests. This groove holds screw 116 in place and secures its desired action upon wedge 114. The object of wedge 114 is to move the needle-bar holding needle laterally. (See Fig. 26, Plate 5, and Figs. 27 and 28, Plate 6.)

E. B.Moore and George Rehfuss have made application for Letters Patent covering this mechanism for moving needle-bar laterally. Serial number of application 202,568.

118, 119, 120, and 121 are ordinary links and pins for connecting needle-bar 112 with rockshaft 111.

122 is the upper take-up; 123, the bearing` on arm of machine for take-up.

124 is a lever-carrying stud 125 and roller 126, working in groove 127 of cam 128, carried on rock-shaft 111.

129 129 are pieces forming cam 128, and are held in their respective places by screws cS c3 c3 c3.

Fig. 28, Plate 6, shows among other things .a skeleton side View of the machine resting upon its iron stand G, which is screwed to the table or support upon which the whole rests.

130-.1- is a cutting-knife secured, as shown, on a lever 130 131, pivoted at 132, and, as shown, made up of two parts 130 and 131, which parts may be made adjustable upon each other in any convenient way.

134 is a movable block beveled at 135 on its upper side, and is held in place by beveled side pieces on bed-plate A. One end of beveled block 134 rests on anvil 136, which is fastened to the table or support to which the iron stand is fastened.

137 is a lever or arm to which is fastened block 138 by means of set-screw 139. Lever- -arm 137 is pivoted between brackets on bedplate A at 140.

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141 is a rod7 one end of which is swiveled to block 131 by a screw 112, while the other end ef said rod is fastened to arm 137 by a screw 143. As lever-arm 137 is depressed for cutting the button-hole, block 131 is drawn out over anvil 136, and by means of beveled edge 135 on block 134E bleek 130 is raised until knife 130.1-, carried on said block, 131 is raised up until it comes in contact with the fabric that is to be cut..

144 is a spiral spring, one end of which is attached to bed-plate A at 145 and the other end to lever-arm 137 at 146. As soon as the blew has been administered by the descent of lever-arm 137, carrying cutting-block 138 andthe fabric cut, lever-arm 137 is carried up and bleek 13t forced back to position shown in drawings, and block 130, carrying` knife, is forced down byaction of spring 147. The advantage of this cutting device is that While the cutting is quickly executed the fact that the anvil rests upon the table or support of the machine furnishes a theronghly solid basis for the action of the cutting-block, and at the same time removes all jar or shock to the machine itself. It is believed te be an improvement upon a cutting device for which Letters Patent No. 314,016 were granted to E. B. Moore under date of March 17, 1885.

118 and 119, Plate 3, Fig. 9, and Figs. 29 and 33, Plate 1, represent fast and loose pulleys en main shaft B.

152 is a recess or slot in fast pulley 149. 2153 is a stop and feed-rod in said slot 152, carrying spiral spring 15a and screw 155, the latter to control the tension of said spring 151. (See Fig. 29, Plate 1.) Upon the side of loose pulley 148 there is a fiange 156. (See Figs. 29 and 33, Plate 1.) The end of the step and feed-rod 153 is recessed, as at 157, (see Fig. 29, Plate 1,) and when the machine is in motion extends above the outer periphery of fast pulley 119, and against which flange 156 en loose pulley 148 impinges, and by that means motion is imparted to the machine.

158, Plate 3, Fig. 9, is a boss on the under side of bed-plate A, (shown partly in section,) for exposing rod 159 and spring 160, and recess or counterbore 161. Attached to rod 159 is a cap or trip 162, the under surface of which corresponds in general curvature to the circular form of loose pulley 148, except one end of which is slightly elevated, as at CLS, Fig. 29, Plate 1. This cap or trip 162 occupies a positien near the outer edge of pulley 149 and on a line with it.

163 is a lever fastened to rod 159, having slot 164. (See Fig. 31, Plate 1.)

165 is a short lever fastened to rod 85, one end of which passes through slot 161l in lever 163. (See Figs. 31 and 32, Plate 1, and Fig. 9.) 166 is an eccentric carried on main shaft B, that moves the needle-bar by means of rockshaft 111. (See Fig. 9, Plate 167 is a cam en eccentric 166. (See Fig. 32,

Plate 1.) Then the machine is tripped at the conclusion of the stitching of the buttonhole, lever 163 is dropped upon main shaft l by the action of lever 165 on rod 85, the end of level-163 comes in the path of cam 167 on the side of eccentric 166, causing rod 1,59 to move laterally, cap or trip 162 by the same action is moved over the outer periphery of fast pulley 119, and thc end of stop and feed rod 155` coming under the raised end of cap or trip 162 at as the end of stop and feed rod 153 is forced downward, and thus the latter is released from an engagement with flange 156 en loose pulley 148, and by which operation the machine is stopped. There is a notch or recess o in cap or trip 162, into which stop and feed rod 153 raises after being depressed te secure the accurate stoppage of the machine at that point; but it is not permitted to rise high enough to impinge against. [lange 156 on loose pulley 148. The longer arm of this offset comes under cap 162, and is depressed until the lower part is carried below the outer periphery of pulley 119, and at the same time releasing said red from iinpingement with flange 156 on loose pulley 14.8. Then rod l), carrying button D', is depressed, (see Fig. 5, Plate 2,) rod 85 is oscillated through its connection with link 84C, (see Figs. t and 5, Plate 2,) and by which action lever 163 is released from impingement with cam 167, when by the action et' spring 160 on rod 159 the latter is again moved laterally, and by which means cap or trip 162 is removed from the outer periphery et' fast pulley 149, and stop and feed rod 153 is raised by the action of spring 113 and placed in position for engagement with flange 156 on loose pulley 148, and motion is thus at once imparted to the machine.

Having described the various parts, what we claim to be our invention, and for which we desire to secure Letters Patent, is-

1. In a button-hele sewing-machine, a feedslide, in combination with a rotating plate secured upon said slide, a segmental circular rack attached to said plate, gearing adapted to engage said rack and rotate the plate through a determined arc, and a movable rack-tooth secured to the plate and arranged to engage the drivinggear and threw it inte operative connection with the rack.

2. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination, with the feed-slide,of a rotating plate secured upon said slide, a segmental circular rack attached to said plate, and a rotating cam having the forward part of its acting-surface made like a section of a screw and the rear portion formed in a plane perpendicular toits axes of rotation, so that when engaged with the rack it first turns the plate for a determined distance and then holds it stationary during the rest of each revolution of the cam, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

3. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination, with the feed-slide, of a rotating plate secured upon said slide, a segmental IOO IIO

circular rack attached to 'said plate, a rotating feed-cam arranged to engage -said rack and rotate the plate through a determined arc, and a movable tooth secured to said plate and by which the rack and cam are thrown into gear.

4. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination, with the feed-slide, of a rotating plate secured upon said slide, a segmental circular rack attached to said plate, a rotating feed-cam arranged to engage said rack and rotate the plate through a determined are, a movable rack-tooth pivoted to said plate and arranged when depressed to engage the cam and throw it into engagement With the rack, and a tooth-supporting plate secured to the frame of the machine and arranged to hold the movable tooth up for a determined part of the forward motion of the feed-slide.

5. In a buttonshole sewing-machine, afeedslide, in combination with a rotating plate secured in said slide, a circular segmental rack attached to said plate, a movable rack-tooth attached to the end of a lever pivoted to the plate, a depressing-rod attached to the other end of the said lever and extending through the plate, and a rotating cam arranged to engage the rack by means of its movable tooth when said tooth is pressed down, all substantially as and for the purpose specified.

G. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination, with the feed-slide, of mechanism for actuating the same, as described, operated by a ratchet-wheel, a pawl actuated by the continuously-operating parts of the machine, a pawl-lifting device arranged, as described, to lift said pawl out of contact with the ratchet-wheel and stop the forward feed of the slide and having an actuating-pin 13, situated beneath and near the end of the slide in the direction to which it moves, a rotating plate secured in the slide, a circular segmental rack attached to said plate, amova'ble rack-tooth secured at the frontend of the rack, gearing arranged to drive the plate by means of the rack and placed so as to be thrown into gear therewith by means of the movable tooth, a plate arranged to come in contact with and raise pin 13, and through it the pawl aforesaid, at a determined point in the forward movement of the slide, and a flange extending around the periphery of the rack, as described, and acting to hold pin 13 up and stop the motion of the slide while the plate is rotating, all substantially as and for the purpose specified.

7. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination, with the feed-slide, of mechanism for actuating the same, as described, operated by a ratchet-Wheel, a pawl actuated by the continuously-operating parts of the machine, a pawl-lifting device arranged, as described, to lift said pawl out of contact With the ratchet-Wheel and stop the forward feed of the slide, and having an actuating-pin 13 situated beneath and near the end of the slide in the direction to which it moves, a rotating plate secured in the slide, a circular segmental rack attached to said plate, a movable rack-tooth secured at the front end of the rack, gearing arranged to drive the plate by means of the rack and placed so as to be thrown into gear therewith by means of the movable tooth, a plate arranged on the front end of the movable tooth to come in contact with and raise pin 13, and through it the pawl aforesaid, at a determined point in lthe forward movement of the slide, and a flange eX- tending around the periphery ot' the rack, as described, and acting to hold pin 13 up and stop the motion of the slide while the plate is rotating, all substantially as and for the purpose speciiied.

8. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination, with thefe'ed-slide carrying a rotating disk, and the bearings on which said slide moves, of a spring-pin 29, secured to the bottom of the slide so as to press against one of the bearings thereof, and a notch 33, formed in said bearing to receive the pin and lock the slide in position while its rotating plate is in operation.

9. In a button-hole seWing-machnathe combination, with the feed-slide, of mechanism for actuating the same, as described, operated by a ratchet-wheel, a pawl actuated by the continuously-operating parts of the machine, a pawl-lifting device arranged, as described, to lift said pawl out of contact with the ratchet-wheel and stop the forward feed of the slide and having an actuating-pin 13, situated beneath and near the end of the slide in the direction to which it moves, a rotating plate secured in the slide, acircular segmental rack attached to said plate, a movable rack-tooth secured at the front end of the rack, gearing arranged to drive the plate by means of the rack and placed so as to be thrown into gear therewith by means of the movable tooth, a plate arranged to come in IOO IIO

contact with and raise pin 13, and through it the pawl aforesaid at a determined point in the forward movement of the slide, a flange extending around the periphery of the rack, as described, and acting to hold pin 13 up and stop the motion of the slide while the plate is rotating, and a locking-pin, as 29, arranged to register with and engage a notch at the moment the pawl is lifted from the ratchet Wheel,so as to lock the slide in position, all substantially as and for the purpose specified.

10. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination, with the feed-slide, of mechanism for actuating the same, as described, operated by a ratchet-wheel, a pawl actuated by the continuously-operating parts of the machine, a pawl-lifting device arranged, as described, to lift said pawl out of contact with the ratchet-wheel and stop the forward feed of the slide, and having an actuating-pin 13, situated beneath and near the end of the slide in the direction to which it moves, a rotating plate secured in the slide, a circular segmental rack attached to said plate, a movable rack- IZO tooth secured at the frontend ot' the rack,

gearing arranged to drive the plate by means of the rack and placed so as to be thrown into gear therewith by means of the movable tooth, a plate arranged to come in contact with and raise pin 13, and through it the paw] aforesaid, at a determined point in the forward movement of the slide, a fiange extending around the periphery of the rack, as described, and acting to hold pin 13 up and stop the motion of the slide while the plate is rotating, a notch 33, formed in the edge of a slide-bearing, a spring-pin 29, arranged to engage said notch and lock the slide in position when the pawl is lifted from the ratchet-wheel, and a plate secured upon the rotating disk and situated, as described, so that it will engage pin 29 and withdraw it from the notch as the rotation of the plate is complete, all substantially as an d for the purpose specified.

11. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the mechanism for carrying and actuating the lower needle, consisting of a grooved bleek 575-, pivoted at one end, a needle-carrier 71, secured in the groove of block 57d-, a cam (3111-, arranged to engage the free end of block 575- and give it one oscillating` movement, as described, a pivoted lever 87, a cam SU, acting to oscillate said lever, a pivoted slotted leverarm 75, connected to lever S7 by slide-block '77, and a rod (55, connecting lever 75 with the needle-carrier, all substantially as specified.

12. In a button-hole sewing-machi ne having a clutch arranged to connect and disconnect the main shaft and driving-Wheel, the combination of the feed-slide with a lug 35, extending out from one edge thereof, a rotating rod 36, having right and left screw-threads out upon it, a stop-block 37, swiveling upon the threaded end of the rod nearest the front of the machine and adapted to engage lug when turned in toward the slide, and a clutchloeking block 3S, swiveling on the threaded end of rod 3G farthest from the front of the machine, said clutch-locking block 3S, when turned in toward the slide, locking the clutch connecting the main shaft with the drivingwheel in operative position, and being adapted to engage lug 35 so as to be pushed out by lug 35, thus stopping the machine, all substantially as and for the purpose specified.

13. In a button-hole sewing-machine having a clutch arranged to connect and disconnect the main shaft and driving-wheel, the combination of the feed-sl ide with a lug 255, extending out from one edge thereof, a rotatable rod 3G, having right and left screw-threads cut upon it, a stop-block 37, swiveling upon the threaded end of the rod nearest the front of the machine and adapted to engage lug 35 when turned in toward the slide, a clutchlocking block 38, swiveling on the threaded end of rod 3G farthest from the front of the machine, said clutch-locking block 3S, when turned in toward the slide, locking the clutch connecting the main shaft with the drivingwheel in operative position, being adapted to engage with lug so as to be pushed out by lug 35, thus stopping the machine, and mechanism arranged, as described, to push the stop-block 37 in when the clutch is ont of actien.

11. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination of the feed-slide, a lng 35, earried on the edge of said slide, a rod 30, having screw-threads O C) cut thereon in opposite directions, a stop-block 37 and latchingblock 3S, swiveling on said rod, as specilied, a trip-lever 83, trip-rod l), lever S-t, stop-lever 85, levers `110 and il, the former having beveled edge 1111,-, trip-dog 12, and spring E17, all combined to act in starting and stopping the machine, as specified.

15. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination of the feed-slide, a lug 35, extending out from said slide, a lug 13, secured to the bed-plaie, and an adjustable stop 44, screwingl in said lug and arrangedin the path of lug 35, so as to regulate the backward m0- tion of the slide.

1G. ln a button-hole sewing-imichine, the combination, with the gear-wheel 57 and its actuating mechanism, of the feed-slide and a straight rack 26, pivoted at one end to the slide and having a free pivotal engagement with the gear-wheel 57, whereby the slide can change its angular position without change in the position of the rack.

17. In combination with the stitch-forming mechanisms of a button-hole sewing-machine, feed-slide 1, pivoted straight feed-rack 26, feed-wheel 57, carried on shaft a, intermediate feed-wheel 571i-, carried on shaft 96, arm 101, having slot 102 and carrying slide-block 103, pawl 18, pivoted to arm 101, feed-block 0S, having arms 100 100, cam 97;-, carried on main shaft B, whereby by the combined action of these several parts a forward step-by-stcp motion is imparted to feed-slide 1, as fully set forth and described.

1S. In combination with the stitch-forming mechanisms of abutton-hole se wing-machine, feed-slide 1, feed-rack 20, feed-wheel 57, shaft a, and intermediate feed-wheel 57%, shaft 9U, ratchet-wheel 17, pawl 18, trip-pin D, and 1evers 83 and S4, block 841i-, wheel 05 on shaft 9G, brake 91, for the p u rposes of securing regular movements to feed-slide 1 under the action of pawl 1S, working in ratchet-wheel 17, as fully1 set forth and described.

10. In a button-hole sewing-machine, in combination with ashaft and mechanism actuated by said shaft aeting to move the feedslide, a ratchet-wheel 17 secured to said shaft, a brake-wheel 95, connected to said shaft, a rock-lever 101, a pawl 1S, attached to said lever and arranged to engage the ratchet-wheel, a cam 071i-, and mechanism connecting said cam with lever 101, a pivoted trip-lever S-t, a brake 0i, secured to said trip-lever so as to overlie brake-wheel 05, a pivoted lever 1007 having one arm 10S arranged with reference to the trip-lever, as described, and its other f arm 107 extending beneath pawl 1S, and mech- IOO IIO

anism for actuating trip-lever 84, as described, so that when said lever is depressed the brake is applied to wheel 95, and the pawl restored to the ratchet-wheel 17.

20. In a button-hole sewing-machine, in combination with a shaft and mechanism actuated by said shaft acting to move the feedslide, a ratchet-Wheel 17, secured to said shaft, a brake-Wheel 95, connected to said shaft, a rock-lever 101, a pawl 18, attached to said lever and arranged to engage the ratchet-Wheel, a cam 97715, and mechanism connecting said cam with lever 101, a vpivoted trip-lever 84, a brake 94, secured to said trip-lever so as to overlie brake-Wheel 95, a pivoted lever 106, having one arm 108 arranged with reference to the trip-lever, as described, and its other arm 107 extending beneath pawl 18, and a second strip-lever 83, arranged, as described, to actuate lever 84, all substantially as and for the purpose specified.

21. In a button-hole sewing-machine,v a pivoted arm 131, carrying one of a pair of cutters, a sliding Wedge 134, arranged to elevate and support the arm 131, an anvil 136, arranged to support said wedge, alever-arm137, pivoted to the machine at one end and carrying a cutter, a rod 141, connecting the Wedge with an arm of lever 137, and a spring arranged to hold the arm 137 raised, all substantially as and for the purpose specified.

22. In a button-hole sewing-machine, apivoted arm 131, carrying one of a pair of cutters adjust-ably secured to it, a sliding Wedge 134, arranged to elevate and support the arm 131, an anvil 136, arranged to support said Wedge, a lever-arm 137, pivoted to the machine at one end and carrying a cutter, a rod 141, connecting the Wedge with an arm of lever 137, and a spring arranged to hold the arm 137 raised, al1 substantially as and for the purpose specified.

lhiladelphia, June 6, A. D. 1889.

WILLIAM MILLS. EDWD. B. MOORE. Witnesses:

DAVID H. MEAD, F. B. KEEFER. 

